Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots from Glantenay has really come good. It has a showy, quite oaky bouquet that says more about the winemaking than the terroir, although it improves with aeration and more blue fruit begins to show through. There is something New World about this, though not necessarily in a negative way—more exuberant and joyful. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, moderate depth, spicier than its peers especially toward the finish, and with time it delivers the fleshiness and the bravura that define Volnay Santenots. After my initial skepticism, I ended up adoring this. Tasted September 2017.