Tasted out of barrel, the 2014 Cornas Arenes Sauvages is impressive. Finishing malolactic in barrel and aged in a combination of new and used barrels, it gives up notions of graphite, lead pencil, smoked meats and assorted dark fruits. Medium to full-bodied, rich, nicely concentrated (especially in this vintage, which yielded mostly forward, charming wines) and textured, it should be an outstanding wine and have a decade of longevity.