Neither of the 1994 Colloseco or the 1995 Valle D'Oro offerings is complicated or complex, but they do offer relief from the absurd wine pricing that seems to be the norm in 1997. Both wines offer deep ruby colors, elegant ripeness in their straightforward berry aromas, medium body (the 1994 Colloseco is slightly more powerful and higher in alcohol), and smooth textures with no hard edges. Both wines can be served slightly chilled, provide considerable flexibility with an assortment of dishes, and are ideal quaffing wines. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620