The 1994 Riesling Rangen Clos St.-Urbain was made from yields of just over one ton per acre (17 hectoliters per hectare). It is nearly dry with 14% alcohol. The wine exhibits an awesome nose of powerfully ripe fruit laced with mineral notes. The wine's density, amazing body, and massive intensity and richness, never come across as over-done or ponderous. Fabulously pure and well-focused, it will easily last for another 15-20 years. This is one of the single greatest Rieslings I have ever tasted.One of the most extraordinary vineyards I have ever seen is the Rangen vineyard in southern Alsace. It has an 80% gradient (some sections have a steepness of 150%), as well as a full southern exposure. The volcanic rock hillside has been terraced, and only the most able laborers/harvesters are capable of working its steep slopes, which may be even more impressive than the dramatically terraced vineyards of Cote Rotie. The Zind-Humbrecht family owns the famed walled parcel, Clos St.-Urbain in the Rangen vineyard. What emerges from this hallowed site are some of the most massive yet beautifully balanced, awesomely concentrated, and profound white wines produced in the world.Most of the Zind-Humbrecht 1994 Rieslings have two strikes against them ... microscopic quantities and lofty price tags. Yet lovers of this varietal are not likely to see a more compelling cross section of Riesling than the offerings reviewed here.The importer for the Zind-Humbrecht wines for most of the United States is Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and for the state of California, Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.
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