The 2004 Riesling Rangen Clos Saint Urbain also went virtually dry (reaching 14.2% alcohol). It boasts one of the smokiest, flintiest, stone dusty, and unmistakably Rangen-typical noses I can ever recall in Riesling from this always pungently aromatic site. On the palate, there are hints of bitterness and heat, though less than the intensity of aromas led me to fear. Ample in girth and intense in flavor, this spicy, smoky behemoth draws energy, sap and juicy sustenance from somewhere, managing thereby to invigorate and create anticipation for the next sip. While darkened, Humbrecht says, the grapes here had not gone into the spore stage of botrytis. “In a few more days, if there had not been the rain forecasted, we would have picked a fine V.T.- I'd revisit this in several years, and cautiously anticipate another decade of development. Olivier Humbrecht compares his 2004s with 1992. These were the two most copious vintages of recent times, delivering truly dry wines with quite high acidity. Although he characterized 2004 as more precocious than 2005, Humbrecht kept harvesting through early November, insisting that this was only possible due to his stringent, biodynamic viticultural practices and consequent generally healthy fruit. Humbrecht insists too that he did not seek botrytis, as rain was rendering noble rot nearly impossible. But it certainly seems sometimes as if botrytis sought out him! One price for his protracted harvest was elevated alcohol, which some wines struck me as hard-pressed to gracefully support; and acid levels too occasionally reached extremes. Overall, in fact, I have never tasted such a wide rage of quality nor so many unusually distinctive and at times downright inscrutable wines at this address as those of 2004. Two thousand five, relates Humbrecht, brought ample botrytis, especially with Pinot Gris, but later ripeness, again with formidable acid and extract levels thanks to the cool, well-watered August. Nearly all of the Riesling musts fermented dry. Humbrecht considers it a classic vintage for (in most instances dry-tasting) Gewurztraminer. And despite the blanket of rot that descended on the Pinot Gris vineyards, a cold, virtually cloudless five day period permitted patient and rigorous selection of fruit. A tribute to the ripeness and high tartaric acidity of these 2005s is that although well more than half of his lots of Riesling and Pinot Gris underwent malolactic transformation, an experienced taster would be hard-pressed to identify which! “Had we had the challenging October of 2004 in 2005 as well,- he says, “most -04s would be better than the -05s.- But as things turned out - October 2005 having been the second warmest after 2001 in the last decade - Humbrecht believes that in the long run these two collections will prove well matched in overall quality.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724
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