A substantial part of the 1999 Gattinara Osso San Grato was aged in barrel, not in cask, and this is perceptible in the ruby highlights and the ample notes of cloves and cinnamon which join the balsamic and rose petal aromas of the nose. Ripe, floral, and mineral in flavor, with lovely fine-grained tannins which add to the density and volume, very classy in its balance and finesse, this is a prototypical Gattinara which explains and justifies the reputation of the past. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. Do not be fooled, by the way, by the fact that this wine lacks the sheer beef of Barolo – it is not short-lived and will stay the course. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411