The 2004 Gattinara Osso San Grato is the most complete wine in this line-up. Though reticent at first, the wine finally opens up with air and the aromatics become wonderfully expressive. A multitude of dried roses, cherries, sweet herbs and spices emerge, finding a perfect counterpoint on the palate, where silky tannins frame the fruit with superb grace. This gorgeous Gattinara is sure to find many admirers. It may well be the finest wine I have ever tasted from Antoniolo. It is a stunner! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Antoniolo is a reference-point producer for first-class Gattinara. This set of wines is easily the finest I have tasted here. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411