The 2007 Gattinara Osso San Grato is a thrilling Gattinara. It is one of the very best Gattinaras I have ever come across. The 2007 combines the freshness and drive of the San Francesco with the inner perfume, guile and pliancy of the Castelle. Expressive red cherries, flowers, rosemary, mint and minerals wrap around the silky, totally satisfying finish. Fond memories of the 1990 linger on my mind. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027.
This is a breathtaking set of new releases from Antoniolo. In fact, they may very well be the best wines I have ever tasted from this estate. Gattinara is generally cooler than the rest of Piedmont. At times the wines can be angular and herbal. Not in 2007. The even heat of the year ripened the fruit beautifully, softening any hard contours and baking out elements of herbaceousness, but without altering the mid-weight, graceful quality that makes the wines of this village so appealing. The resulting wines are flat-out delicious.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119