De Bortoli’s top wines come off their estate vineyards in the Yarra Valley, and this Chardonnay is a hit, balancing the lead-pencil scents of French oak barrels against layers of honeyed apple and pear fruit and a zippy note of citrus. It’s round in the mouth without being fat, crisp on the finish while showing a touch of buttery richness. Drink now. ——J.C.(5/1/2007)—— 90