The 2006 Chardonnay Estate Grown was barrel-fermented with native yeasts in older oak. Medium straw in color with a muted nose, with coaxing hints of mineral, green apple, and pear emerge. In the mouth it is a bit one-dimensional albeit with attractive flavors and good balance. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. De Bortoli owns estate vineyards in Riverina, Hunter Valley, and Yarra Valley and produces several tiers of dry table wines in addition to their sweet and fortified dessert wines.Importer: De Bortoli Wines, North America; www.debortoli.com.auAlso tasted: 2007 Sauvignon Blanc- Semillon Windy Peak (75), 2007 Viognier Windy Peak (80), 2006 Pinot Noir Vat 10 (78), 2007 Pinot Noir Windy Peak (72), 2006 Pinot Noir Estate Grown (82?), 2006 Shiraz, McLaren Vale

The outlook at De Bortoli’s Yarra Valley winery is—dare it be said—more European in focus, fashioning wines that de-emphasize primary fruit in favor of terroir and texture. This Chardonnay is a good example, lacking overt fruit but showcasing mealy, leesy notes, a welcoming custardy texture and a lingering, minerally finish.——J.C.(3/1/2008)—— 88