This is one of my favorite wines in this full retrospective spanning a quarter century. The Tua Rita 1997 Redigaffi (100% Merlot) is shaped by a classic vintage that set the stage for many of Italy's best-known blended reds, such as Solaia, Sassicaia and Ornellaia, putting them all in the spotlight, especially among international collectors. A deep freeze on April 17 reduced yields by one-third and cemented quality as a result. This wine is a gorgeous revelation with enduring freshness and vitality. You taste the fruit here, with blackberry and dried currant, over a tapered, medium-weight finish. The tannins are beautifully softened and elongated.

The flagship wine of Tua Rita is their tiny (under 200 cases) production of 100% Merlot aged in French oak and bottled with no fining or filtration called Redigaffi. This wine has represented a classic example of Merlot's potential in this coastal section of Tuscany. The spectacular, black/purple-colored 1997 Redigaffi boasts huge, chocolatey, blackberry, smoky nose and flavors, a full-bodied personality oozing with extract and ripe, juicy fruit, sensational length (45+ seconds), and brilliant purity and symmetry. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2012.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620