The 2006 Redigaffi is another deeply-colored, intense offering. Blueberries, blackberries, grilled herbs, minerals and French oak emerge with tons of inner sweetness as this beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. This gorgeous, sculpted Redigaffi possesses tons of harmony and class all the way through to the polished, energetic finish. Although the tannins are rather firm, they are virtually buried under the wine’s fruit. This is an awesome effort from Tua Rita. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. This is a breathtaking set of wines from proprietor Stefano Frascolla and consulting oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Although Suvereto is one of the warmer micro-climates in Tuscany, the estate’s vineyards also contain a relatively high percentage of minerals, which allows the wines to maintain a surprising level of freshness, even in warm vintages. 2006 is quite possibly the most consistent vintage yet from top to bottom for Tua Rita. Simply put, the wines are not to be missed.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

A pure expression of Merlot, the 2006 Redigaffi feels a little too evolved or tertiary in the context of this quarter-century retrospective. There are vintages much older than this that have held up better. This was a hot growing season on the Tuscan coast, characterized by sunshine and cooling rain later on that helped to slow the ripening. Dried porcino mushroom, balsam herb, candied fruit and dried mint appear on the bouquet. Dig down deeper and you recognize the complexity and sheer power of this wine. Perhaps this vintage is fading at a faster pace than some of the others in this tasting. I shortened the suggested drinking window as a result.

A cult wine and an international superstar, Redigaffi (100% Merlot) will blow you away with its richness, opulence and smoothness. Aromatic layers of milk chocolate, nutmeg, vanilla and Christmas spice peel back one thick layer after the next. This is a loudspeaker wine with extraordinary intensity and softness from start to finish.——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 96