The 2008 Redigaffi is impeccable in its elegance and polish. Dark cherries, licorice, espresso and mocha meld together beautifully in this textured, fleshy wine. Despite its sophisticated personality, there is plenty of tannin lurking underneath to provide support. This is a beautifully round, opulent, yet impeccably balanced wine of the highest level. Smoke, minerals, licorice and tar wrap around the intense finish. Redigaffi remains a unique and powerful expression of Merlot from the Tuscan coast. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. This is a fabulous set of wines from Stefano Frascolla and Tua Rita. The 2008s show the real class of the year in Maremma.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This is the second of two bottles in this Tua Rita retrospective that did not live up to expectations. Two out of 26 are darn good odds, though. The other one was the 1998. Jumping forward 10 years, the 2008 Redigaffi comes from a hot vintage, and the results are a bit flabby and heavy. This is an open-knit, loosely textured wine with dark fruit, crushed mineral and pencil shavings on the bouquet. It has lost it shape at this point in time.

Tua Rita’s Redigaffi is one of the best reds to emerge from Italy and the 2008 vintage delivers all the promise and hope of previous editions. The wine is set apart by its enormous richness and deeply concentrated layers of sweet cherry fruit, chocolate, tobacco and cinnamon spice. Put this bottle in your cellar for ten years or more. ——M.L.(10/1/2011)—— 96