The 2006 Chardonnay Keefer Ranch exhibits good, crisp white pear, white peach, and some wet stones in a medium-bodied, Burgundian style of wine with crisp acidity, nice freshness, and a subtle use of oak. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142

The Keefer Ranch has been source to some of Russian River Valley’s most interesting Chardonnays, from multiple producers. Ehren Jordan’s interpretation is to let the vintage speak. His ’06 is very dry and crisp and minerally, almost Chablisian, with nuances of Meyer lemon-infused creme brulee. It’s a Chardonnay of elegance and structure.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 92