Simiarly-styled, but with more nectarine and lemon zest notes as well as that unmistakable minerality is the 2007 Chardonnay Keefer Ranch. This lovely wine has more flesh and depth on its bones, but it remains zesty. It should drink well for 3-4 years. Given proprietor Ehren Jordan's experience working in France, it is not surprising that his wines possess French-like acid profiles as well as an unmistakable minerality. Jordan continues to fashion some brilliant white wines, including purchased fruit from John Alban's vineyard in Edna Valley. There are six Pinot Noir cuvees produced at Failla, with the total production now reaching 4,000 cases. Ehren Jordan's undeniable strength is demonstrated by his touch with Syrah.Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142

An awesome Chardonnay. Explodes in the mouth with massive pineapple, creme brulee, apricot jam and new oak flavors that finish thoroughly dry. For all the richness, there’s a near-perfect balance of acidity, and a mineral undertow that grounds the wine, providing vitality and life. Brilliant now and through 2013.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 94