The 2010 Chardonnay Keefer Ranch impresses for its delicate, understated personality. Lemon peel, white flowers and crushed rocks inform a crystalline, pure Chardonnay that shows the brighter, more chiseled side of the Russian River. All the elements are nicely balanced in the medium-bodied Keefer Ranch. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets.Tel. (707) 963-0530