Also lively and fresh, the 2003 Condrieu Les Chaillees de l’Enfer gives up ample melon, tangerine and peachy notes that turn more floral and mineral with air. Medium to full-bodied, with surprising acidity and outstanding purity, it too is evolving gracefully. While I generally feel Condrieu show best in their first 3-5 years of life, all three of these efforts from Georges Vernay were stunning. They certainly make me open up my drink windows on these wines.