The 2017 Condrieu les Chaillees de l'Enfer offers up unusually subdued aromas of apricot and citrus. It's a reined-in vintage, showing ample tension on the medium to full-bodied palate and finishing velvety, with hints of crushed stone and pencil oak. Like the other 2017s from Vernay, it's about balance and focus more than flamboyance or power.