The 2004 Pinot Noir Estate exhibits a dark ruby hue along with a brilliantly expressive nose of forest floor, sweet cherries and raspberries, and notions of background oak as well as earth. Medium-bodied with excellent purity and good acidity, it is a French-styled Pinot that resembles a premier cru Chambolle-Musigny or Vosne-Romanee. Accessible now, it should be even better with 2-4 years of cellaring, and last for 10-15 years. Tel. (888) 865-9463

Co-released with the ’05, Mount Eden’s ’04 is a soft, languid wine, good as far as it goes, but missing that extra something. It has cherry, cola, red currant and smoky oak flavors, and is totally dry. Yet it’s a bit tired, and seems at its best now.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 86