The renowned 2006 Cask 23 is a shadow of the great Cask 23s that were produced in the 1970s and 1980s, particularly vintages such as 1978, 1984, and 1985, which are still remarkable. Dark plum/ruby, it possesses hard, tannic flavors and a hollow lack of charm, depth, and richness, while the finish is short, clipped, and compact. All of the following wines were no doubt made under the old administration of founder and pioneer Warren Winiarski and not under the new owners, the Piero Antinori-led consortium that purchased this winery for $185+ million in 2007. Something obviously has happened over the years, as these wines suggest that the estate has been living off the status quo, somehow forgetting what they accomplished in the 1970s and 1980s. I still own some of the great vintages of Cask 23 from the late 1970s through the 1980s, and several vintages (for example, the 1978 and the 1985) are among the greatest wines in my personal collection. However, in the 1990s, the wines seemed to take on less concentration, complexity, and intensity, became more narrowly constructed, austere, and sadly, rather boring. I suspect we will see, in the red wines from 2007, and particularly in 2008 and 2009, a far higher level of quality from the new owners.Tel. (707) 944-2020; fax (707) 257-7501

A very good but not great Cask 23, showing plenty of decadence and flair but not perhaps that extra edge of complexity. It’s forward now in sweet new oak and flashy, jammy blackberries, cherries and raspberries. The tannins are quite an achievement, rich, vibrant and supple. Made from 100% Cabernet, it’s full-bodied and dense, with a chocolaty finish. Could gain in the bottle beyond 2012 to about 2018.——S.H.(4/1/2010)—— 91