The flagship wine, the 2007 Cask 23 Estate is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and production is usually between 1,500-1,600 cases. Displaying finesse, power and measured restraint, this deep dark plum/purple-tinged 2007 reveals notes of black currants, Asian spices, sweet plums, Christmas fruitcake and cedar. This medium to full-bodied, delicate but substantial beauty should be consumed over the next 12-15 years. Dramatic improvements are clearly underway at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, which was sold to a consortium led by Tuscany’s Piero Antinori in 2007. Antinori brought in well-known consultant Renzo Cotarella to improve the quality and, hopefully, get this winery back to the lofty heights it achieved in the seventies and early eighties. They seem to be well on their way, which is good news for consumers. This is a large estate of 104 acres, all situated as one giant block of vineyards in the southern part of the Stags Leap appellation. The change in ownership and winemaking staff shows progressive improvement with each vintage starting with 2007. The 2009s look to be their best wines to date. As for the 2007 reds, normally four cuvees are produced, all based on Cabernet Sauvignon, including the Cask 23, which comes from the best lots from the Fay and S.L.V. estate vineyards after fermentations are completed. The most impressive Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ offerings made since the 1985 vintage are the three 2009s I was permitted to taste from barrel.Tel. (707) 944-2020; Fax (707) 257-7501

Mint, earth, cedar, spice, mineral, currant and confit aromas. Nice leathery tannins surround layers of ripe plum fruit. Good freshness and body.

Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged in mostly new French oak, this is a very elaborate wine. It’s quite good, a full-bodied, powerful Cab with a molten core of blackberries and black currants and, of course, a thick, dry layer of firm tannins. It does not seem to have quite the depth of vintages from certain earlier vintages, but it should develop nicely in the cellar over the next decade or longer. ——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 92