The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23 Estate is another big, burly wine characterized by hard tannins and an overall impression of rusticity. Dark cherries, plums and licorice are some of the notes that take shape in the glass, but ultimately the 2008 offers limited elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. The changes that have taken place at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars over the last few years are nothing less than stunning. The Antinori family bought a 15% stake in Stag's Leap Wine Cellars in 2007 and was appointed technical director as part of the deal. Long time winemaker Renzo Cotarella, who oversees all of the Antinori wines in Italy plus Antica on Atlas Peak, was brought in to consult. Sadly, the 2008 Cabernets are plagued by brett and are largely disappointing, especially considering the quality these vineyards are capable of. Some of the other recent releases I tasted were frankly undrinkable. Quality takes a meaningful step up in 2009 as the Cabernets acquire elegance and finesse. For some of the bottlings, though, the most obvious jump in quality is from 2009 and 2010. Either way, these new and upcoming releases are compelling and merit significant attention. I can’t possibly understate the huge impact Antinori, Renzo Cotarella and the team at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars are having on the 2009s and 2010s. These are going to be fascinating wines to follow over the coming years and decades. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the Artemis and Cask 23 2010s as the final blends had not yet been made at the time of my tastings.Tel. (707) 944-2020; www.cask23.com

Very classy nose of coffee, black plum, pepper, spice and vanilla. Very classic Stags Leap style, fresh acidity and elegant, silky tannins. With restrained yet focused fruit, it is clearly ageworthy and youthful, with concentration and length. Drink from 2012. Alc: 14.5%. (17 points)

One sip is all it takes to fall in love with this 100% Cabernet, which hails from the winery’s Stags Leap District vineyards. It’s soft, lush and opulent in blackberry, cherry, blueberry, cassis, dark chocolate and smoky oak flavors. Although it was aged in 100% new French oak, the oak isn’t at all heavy. Rather, it’s perfect, adding just the right touch of smoke. Really fabulous, and the tannins define Stags Leap, so strong yet sweetly refined. If you can keep your hands off it, this is a wine to cellar for many years.——S.H.(4/1/2012)—— 97