The 2003 Reserva (Marques de Borba) is Ramos’ flagship wine. It is well crafted here, with some intensity, good focus, and an elegantly crafted mid-palate of moderate depth. It is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragones, Alicante Bouchet and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is a little closed at the moment, and needs some “wake-up” time. There is grip on the finish, and the wine becomes more intense with air. It is dark purple. The fruit flavors are rather subdued at the moment, and this wine clearly needs some time in the cellar. It should round nicely into form. The oak is well integrated and under control. Drink 2009-2018. Ramos is one of the best known names in Southern Portugal, making wines under a variety of labels and in several regions. His labels include the familiar Marques de Borba, as well as Vila Santa. His company also owns Falua in Ribatejo. For convenience, all our grouped here, since they are all Ramos-owned operations. Ramos is also the winemaker at his father-in-law’s estate (separately listed), Quinta de Foz de Arouce. Oh, and just a pet peeve – between Borba, Vila Santa and Falua, Ramos seems to delight in making the vintage dates tiny and/or indistinct. Bring a magnifying glass.Importer: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel. (800) 667-0750; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843; Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The huge concentration of this wine reflects the hot 2003 vintage. There are aromas of ripe fruit skins, and flavors of big, juicy, hugely rich black fruits, with dark tannins and a hot texture.——R.V.(12/15/2007)—— 87