The 2008 RESERVA “MARQUES DE BORBA,” a blend of Trincadeira, Aragones, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in French oak, is Ramos’ prestige bottling. While many may find it hard to justify its price point, which has increased quite a bit over the last few years, it certainly is a very fine performer this year, providing the best structure of the winery’s lineup, without question, and a finesse that nothing else the winery makes has. This is what I love about this bottling—its ability to deliver persistent flavor, while seeming ethereal and elegant. So, too, here—it is remarkably graceful in the mid-palate, a wine that promises to be an absolute pleasure to drink when it settles down. A bit tinged with vanilla at the moment, it should have no problem integrating its oak with time. It is generally crisp and fresh, and becomes more so with aeration. It has some hard tannins on the finish and develops a bit of a hard edge with air. It has very fine intensity of fruit flavor, too, and perhaps just a touch of funk that seems to initially get stronger and then largely blow off. Overall, it is a lovely bottling that covers all the bases and seems likely to age well, but it will require a few years in the cellar to become more civilized. Drink 2012-2024. This lineup is often a good source for values in Portugal. This year’s releases are no different, and perhaps better than most in that regard. There are a lot of beautifully constructed wines here that are charming and inexpensive (ignoring the Reserva “MARQUES DE BORBA,” which has spiked up dramatically in recent years to levels many might find unrealistic). The Vila Santa Reserva Tinto and the Marques de Borba regular Tinto are certainly best buys, but there are good cases to make for the monovarietals and the Loios wines as well.Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado).

An impressive, serious wine that shows great ripe fruits, concentrated tannins and a solid edge of wood aging. It is finely structured, its richness not taking away from its balance, although it certainly is no wimp. Enjoy with hearty meals.——R.V.(2/1/2011)—— 91