The 2005 RESERVA MARQUES DE BORBA is Ramos’ flagship wine. This is a preview report, tasted from bottle in the U.S.A. as well as at the winery, but it has not yet been released here. It will become available in 2009 at some point. It is a lovely wine, graceful, with well integrated tannins and a sunny, flavorful demeanor, perhaps the most refined wine from Ramos reviewed this issue. It has a lot of “suave” going on. The mid-palate is a bit light, though. There is some grip on the finish, which eventually tails off a bit. This seems to have closed a little since I saw it at the winery. Once it settles down, it should be quite charming. Although this is quite nice, I feel duty bound to note that the price hike is a bit startling. At roughly three times the price of its sibling, the ’05 Vimioso Reserva reviewed this issue (not to mention, five times the price of the ’07 Borba regular Tinto reviewed this issue), this is hard to recommend. Comparing apples to apples, this ’05 Reserva Marques de Borba list price has more or less doubled compared to the list price I was given for the ’03 Reserva Marques de Borba. The ’04 Borba Reserva is the same $75 suggested retail price. As with some other upper level Southern Portuguese wines in this report Leo d’Honor, Torre do Frade, Malhadinha Nova, Zambujeiro, Monte Da Penha “Geracoes”, the price is likely to make it a hard sell in this marketplace. Recent economic gyrations may make this a quixotic decision. Drink now-2016. Iconic Southern winemaker Joao Portugal Ramos has many brands, Falua/Vimioso for his Ribatejo property, the low cost Loios brand, the single vineyard Vicosa, Vila Santa and the flagship Marques de Borba in Alentejo. For convenience, they are all grouped here although note that the Falua wines do not necessarily have Ramos’ name on the label.Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado); for Conde de Vimioso (Falua) brand: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843 (Washington, Portland and California) and Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044 (New England, New Jersey and New York).