Although expensive, the 1997 Marques de Borba Tinto Reserva boasts abundant class and character. A dark ruby/purple color is followed by a spicy bouquet of black currants, underbrush, animal fur, and new saddle leather. Rich, long, and intense, with slight austerity, but excellent purity and moderate tannin, it will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and may merit an outstanding rating if the tannin becomes better integrated. Readers who have not yet tried some of the exciting wines emerging from Portugal need to search out this offering from Joao Portugal Ramos. This offering represents an excellent value.FRAN KYSELA, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258