What a beautiful and complete wine, with dark chocolate, crushed blackberry, cedar and raspberry on the nose. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a beautiful licorice, tar and fruit aftertaste. Long and complex. Will improve with age, but delicious now.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. -JS

A more firmly structured Haut-Brion, built somewhat along the lines of the 1996, this dark garnet-colored wine is showing notes of licorice, underbrush, compost, truffles, dried herbs, creosote, and sweet black cherries and currants. Medium-bodied, rich, but still structured, this wine unfolds incrementally on the palate, showing superb density and a lot of complex Graves elements. It is just beginning to hit its plateau of full maturity. Anticipated maturity: Now-2025. Last tasted, 11/02.