As the 1918 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru turns 100, it is still showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with a classy bouquet of Griotte cherries, caramelized orange rind and camphor that mingles with subtle but sweet notes of heather and grilled meats. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, satiny and transparent, with melted tannins, succulent acids and remarkable vitality. No doubt, the fact that the wine had aged on its original cork and never left the domaine helped to account for its striking performance.