An overperformer in a challenging vintage, the 2000 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is drinking beautifully, bursting with aromas of incense, dark chocolate, raspberries, plums and grilled game bird. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with sweet tannins and a rich core of fruit. The wine is at its peak, even in magnum, so readers with bottles in their cellars shouldn't hesitate to open them.