Familie Gesellmann Creitzer Blaufrankisch Reserve, Mittelburgenland, Austria

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From an assortment of parcels with varying ages of vines, the Gesellmann’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Creitzer Reserve (named for the local expression for residents of Deutschkreuz) features deep, bitter-sweet mulberry, blackberry, and tobacco, tinged with salt, resin, and vanilla from a 16 month stay in non-new barriques. Exhibiting considerable and slightly rustic tannin, this finishes forcefully but with a bit of heat from its 14% alcohol. Albert Gesellmann – much influenced by the time he spent in California and South Africa in the mid-1990s – makes no apologies for wanting to produce powerful red wines. I have found a few of those that receive accolades within Austria somewhat overwrought and superficially sweet and oaky, although there is no question that the underlying material is concentrated. The Gesellmanns were among Burgenland’s pioneers with Cabernet and Merlot – some of their Bordelaise vines having recently reached a 25th birthday – but in recent years interest here as elsewhere in Mittelburgenland has been focused more on the traditional Blaufrankisch, on blends with Zweigelt and St. Laurent, and on Pinot Noir. The Gesellmanns are not among those with experimental plots of Syrah, although to taste some of their wines, you might believe otherwise.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.