A 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Narbantons – consistent with the nature of this site – is both the most structured but also the most filled-out of Guillemot offerings, and an outstanding value, not least in view of its likelihood to reward 7-12 years in the cellar and hold for much longer. An intense aroma of wood smoke-tinged cassis and blackberry leads to a palate of clarity, refreshment, marrowy, meaty richness, and distinctive iodine-like minerality. Rich in flavor yet sleek in structure, ripe yet bright, this will display even more depth for those who are patient. (The fruit of Guillemot’s Corton seemed strangely muted -- not from TCA contamination but possibly as a result of recent bottling – when I tasted it, so I must reserve judgement on that wine.)
Based on the evidence of these 2005s (which I tasted just after bottling, with their importer and not at the domaine), the new generation intends not to violate the distinctively old-fashioned charms which have always characterized Guillemot wines at their best, but perhaps they can introduce some needed consistency. As a group these wines offer good value, at least for tasters to whom their style appeals.
Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($22.00; 84).
Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.