The 2008 Baffonero (Merlot) needs quite a bit of time in the glass to show its pedigree. Blackberries, blueberries, mint, smoke and tar fill out the wine’s muscular frame quite nicely. The layers of flavor build towards the explosive, juicy finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is a bit of a Renaissance man. Panerai publishes Milano Finanza, Italy’s equivalent of Barrons (for which he also writes one of that country’s most widely read editorial columns), publishes a number of other more lifestyle oriented magazines and has a joint venture with CNBC, to list a few of his business interests. Oh, and he makes pretty good wines, too. Since the 1970s Panerai and his family have owned Castellare, one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico. More recently, Panerai has set his sights on making first-rate wines in Maremma through this joint venture with the Rothschild family. Rocca di Frassinello is a young winery, and the best is clearly yet to come. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200