The 2009 Baffonero is superb in this vintage. It bursts onto the palate with an exotic array of plums, blackberries, French oak, spices, violets and licorice, all of which wrap around the palate with notable intensity. Baffonero keeps getting better with each passing vintage, but in 2009 it appears everything has come together. Tar, smoke, violets and licorice wrap around the muscular, jammy finish. With a little more polish, Baffonero could very well be an exceptional wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is another strong set of wines from proprietor Paolo Panerai and long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai. I find it interesting that Panerai pursues a much more refined approach at Castellare, his legacy Tuscan winery, than at Rocca di Frassinello, where the wines are made in a more full-throttle style that pushes the edge of ripeness. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2009 Baffonero is superb in this vintage. It bursts onto the palate with an exotic array of plums, blackberries, French oak, spices, violets and licorice, all of which wrap around the palate with notable intensity. Baffonero keeps getting better with each passing vintage, but in 2009 it appears everything has come together. Tar, smoke, violets and licorice wrap around the muscular, jammy finish. With a little more polish, Baffonero could very well be an exceptional wine.