The 2000 Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose has lost much of its fruit, exposing the tannins and knocking the wine off balance. The tannins are already prominent, and will become even more imposing as the fruit continues to drop off, while the bouquet has entered its tertiary stage. Any remaining bottles need to be finished off sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013.

A bit herbal on the nose, with other scents of cherries and dusty spices. It’s more powerful in the mouth, where the cherries seem to expand and flow silkily across the palate. Finishes long and elegant, with a hint of chocolate. Uncommonly supple for Barolo, suggesting early drinkability. ——J.C.(11/15/2004)—— 89