Poderi Colla has produced a big, masculine wine with their 2004 Barolo Bussia Dardi/Le Rose. Huge, brooding aromas of scorched earth, spices and tobacco lead to rich, complex layers of dried figs, plums and prunes that gradually open on the palate. This impressively endowed, exciting Barolo closes with a long, sweet finish, yet it needs a minimum of a few years of bottle age to fully come together. Fermentation takes place in cement, where the wine remains until the Spring, when it is racked into medium and large casks of various sizes. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a thick and dark style of Barolo with a concentrated focus on red currant, leather, roasted almonds, spice and tobacco. Its flavors are broad, far - reaching and are well supported by the wine’s firm but not intrusive tannins. It’s almost ready to drink now (give it three more years) and would taste fantastic with steak in pepper sauce.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 92