Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide’s 2009 Godello was sourced from 60-year-old vines and aged on its lees. Light straw-colored, it has an impressive nose of slate/mineral, baking spices, melon, and white fruit cocktail. Very concentrated and complex on the palate, it has a creamy texture and a sense of elegance. Its acid structure suggests that it may evolve for 1-2 years and drink well for up to 4-5 years. It is an outstanding value. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; www.grapesofspain.com

This winery is known for red Mencia, but this small-lot Godello is perfectly nice and drinkable. It has a neutral nose and a fresh palate of green melon, nectarine and apple flavors. The finish is clipped and a touch bitter, but there’s no denying its tangy, forward approach. Only 250 cases made. ——M.S.(12/15/2010)—— 87