The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley is more fragrant than its Columbia Valley cousin. Richer, smoother, and suppler, it has excellent breadth on the palate, superb depth, and a lengthy finish. It is a friendly, hedonistic expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. L’Ecole No. 41 is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent. L’Ecole’s original fame was the result of its success with Semillon. Today the winery produces three. Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

This is a real Walla Walla smorgasbord, mixing grapes from 7 Hills, Pepper Bridge, Va Piano, Loess and Yellow Jacket vineyards, representing three quite different types of soil in the Walla Walla Valley. It includes 6% Cab Franc, which shows immediately in the floral elements as well as providing an underlying minerality. Dense and tarry, with black fruits and a wonderful rock-based frame, this wine has excellent definition. From the scents of violet and blossom, to the sweet berry fruit, to the thick, smoky, chewy tannic finish, it shows heft and power.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 90