The 2009 CONTRASTE Branco is a blend of Rabigato, Codega do Larinho, Codega (a.k.a. Siria) and Viosinho, 70% tank aged, the rest aged in oak for 6 months. Clean and fresh, it seems like quite a mouthful in its youth, well balanced, relatively fat and quite tasty. There are hints of oak around the edges, but this is not a wine dominated by the oak and the fruit is plainly in control. It seems fresh and refreshing. There were 20,000 bottles produced. It may last longer, but with wines like this I like to be safe and drink them on the young side, and I'd note that it did fade a bit with air. Drink now-2012. Importer: Vin de Terra Imports, Inc., Springfield, VA; tel: (703) 731-2058

Smooth, creamy wine, its fruit layered with toast and piquant spices. The yellow fruit flavors are contrasted with acidity from a pink grapefruit freshness. It should be aged for another year. ——R.V.(4/1/2011)—— 90