Hazelnuts and anise can be discerned in the nose of the 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean. Big, broad, rich, and suave, this lush, ripe wine has a zesty note of lime that cuts through its otherwise velvety pear-flavored personality. Drink it over the next 5 years. Michel Niellon began harvesting on the 21st of September. “It’s the first Saturday after the ban de vendange. That’s when I always harvest.” His natural potential alcohols ranged from 12.5 to 12.8%, and he describes 2002 as a year with “l(fā)oads of flesh, a year to drink young or age six to eight years.” On this latest point, Niellon stressed that he enjoys his wines when they are young. “I like them on the fruit. Others can drink them however they want, but I drink wine to drink fruit. In fact,” he went on, “even though everybody loves the 1996s, I don’t like them. I like supple wines.” Niellon, like Alsace’s Olivier Humbrecht, believes that all whites should be decanted, something that readers should try at home. Personally, I have found that this is the way to go, as it allows the wines to blossom. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725