The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean emerges from the glass with layers of bright, chiseled citrus, white peach and flowers. This is a decidedly wiry, focused style with lovely length and plenty of energy. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I tasted all of these wines with Michel Niellon in his huge warehouse facility just outside of Chassagne. The 2009s are made in a style that emphasizes freshness. Niellon thinks wines peak at 6-7 years after releases and he is clearly going for an accessible style. That said, I found all the wines all shows better with air, except for the Chevalier, which unfortunately remained stubborn throughout my visit. I hope to have a chance to retaste it in the future. The 2009s saw 25% new oak. The wines are racked in July, after the malos, and were bottled before the 2010 harvest. Niellon told me he might pursue longer elevage for some of his wines now that space is not a constraint. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400