The three new releases from Fontodi, one of the stars of Tuscany, all possess distinctive personalities. My favorite is the saturated, dark-colored 1990 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo, a wine of considerable richness, a spicy, leathery, cedary nose and flavors, medium to full body, moderate tannin, and adequate acidity. Although tightly knit, backward, and unevolved, it displays loads of promise. With 1-2 additional years of cellaring it may merit an outstanding rating. It is a rich, harmonious Chianti for drinking over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY.