Vincenzo Cesani, who moved to Tuscany from the Marches after World War II, is a true cultivator of the soil – the calloused hands are those of a tiller, not a gentleman farmer or an entrepreneur bitten by the wine bug. And his are among the top wines of San Gimignano, as the 2002 Vernaccia di San Gimignano Sanice indicates with its lemon, grapefruit, and pineapple notes, its light almond aromas, and its length and presence on the palate. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898