A gorgeous surprise, the 1999 Barbaresco Rio Sordo shows amazing depth of personality and drive. What stands out most are the menthol aromas that come bursting from the glass followed by tar, ash, candied fruit, cola and exotic spice. It opens to impressive intensity and doesn-t let down, even after a long period in the glass. The mouthfeel is extremely fine and polished. Drink: 2014-2020. Giovanna Rizzolio and her lovely family (including husband Italo and sons Riccardo and Davide) are rising stars in the Tre Stelle area of Barbaresco. They own 1.5 hectares in the 15-hectare Tre Stelle cru. Although her family made wine as far back as 1948 (she has a few dusty bottles left in her photogenic cellars), her winemaking efforts start with the 1999 vintage. Her total holdings include 3.6 hectares of vines and production has reached 20,000 bottles. Various American Importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; La Famiglia Corona, Baton Rouge, LA; tel. (225) 650-9030; Cream Wine Company, Chicago, IL; tel. (321) 421-1900