Cascina delle Rose’s 2009 Barbaresco Rio Sordo is slightly tighter and more reticent than the Tre Stelle. Barbarescos from Rio Sordo are usually more open than this, which bodes well for the future, even if readers will need to be patient. Firm yet well-integrated tannins frame an attractive, delineated finish laced with tobacco, leather, spices and expressive dark fruit. As good as this is, there is very little of the early appeal of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2024. Proprietress Giovanna Rizzolio has done a great job with her 2009s. Cascina delle Rose remains one of the most under-the-radar estates in Barbaresco, although my sense is that won’t be the case too much longer. The house style is traditional and winemaking is fairly minimalist. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Integrity Wines, Atlanta, GA; www.integritywines.net