From a beautiful vintage, the 2001 Barbaresco Rio Sordo opens slowly in the glass to reveal toasted notes of ash and almond husk that segue to dark fruit, dusty earth, licorice, cola and medicinal herb. The bottle I tasted was initially shut down but started to soften and brighten after ten minutes or so. Drink: 2014-2020. Giovanna Rizzolio and her lovely family (including husband Italo and sons Riccardo and Davide) are rising stars in the Tre Stelle area of Barbaresco. They own 1.5 hectares in the 15-hectare Tre Stelle cru. Although her family made wine as far back as 1948 (she has a few dusty bottles left in her photogenic cellars), her winemaking efforts start with the 1999 vintage. Her total holdings include 3.6 hectares of vines and production has reached 20,000 bottles. Various American Importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; La Famiglia Corona, Baton Rouge, LA; tel. (225) 650-9030; Cream Wine Company, Chicago, IL; tel. (321) 421-1900