Old vintages from Hubert Lignier are as rare as hens' teeth these days. More is the pity when you encounter a wine as brilliant as his 1978 Charmes Chambertin. There remains an enormous amount of fruit on the nose: wild strawberries, mulberry and a touch of ink, all fabulously defined. The palate has a disarming, rich texture, perfect acidity that slices through quite plush blackberry and strawberry fruit. There is real density to this Charmes-Chambertin and amazing focus. I doubt that I will ever get to drink it again, but once is better than never.