Hubert Lignier continues to confirm the fact that he is among Burgundy's masters when crafting natural, complex, seductive Pinot Noir. Both grand crus, the Charmes-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche, are sensational. The Charmes-Chambertin is more forward, with a staggeringly intense nose of black fruits, new oak, and flowers. Dense, rich, and full-bodied, with soft tannins, low acidity, and that unctuous, chewy texture that so many 1990s possess, this concentrated wine should drink beautifully for at least the next decade. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.