The 2008 Barbaresco Nubiola wafts from the glass with crushed flowers, sweet herbs, licorice and spices, all of which add complexity to the fruit. The Nubiola is deceptively medium in body. With time it fleshes out beautifully, showing terrific richness for the vintage. A firm, poised finish has the last say. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. These are among the finest wines I have ever tasted from Giorgio Pelissero. The 2008 harvest was very much on the later side and began in mid-October. The Vanotu was aged in 100% new French oak barrels, while the Nubiola and Tulin were aged approximately 60% in cask and 40% used French oak. Pelissero credits higher-quality barrels as one of the main reasons his wines are more elegant than in the past, but he isn’t giving himself enough credit.Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Nubiola is a pulpy, thickly concentrated Nebbiolo with brambly notes of forest fruit, moist earth, leather, spice and toasted hazelnut. The wine is still young, astringent and needs a few more years of cellar aging before it softens up.——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 91