The 1990 Volnay-Caillerets offers an earthy, spicy, herb, and black fruit-scented nose, tight, but well-endowed, medium-bodied flavors, good weight and density, and moderate tannins in the sleek finish. Although closed, this wine displays excellent potential. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2004. Gerard Potel's winemaking touch continues to ensure that Pousse d'Or's wines are among the most elegant and graceful produced in Volnay. In 1990 there is an added aromatic dimension because of the superb ripeness achieved in this vintage. The results are Pousse d'Or's finest wines since 1985 and 1980. A Becky Wasserman Selection, various importers.