The Pousse d’Or 2008 Volnay Caillerets displays bright primary juiciness with an admirable sense of transparency to chalk and mineral salts typical of the site. There is a slight bit of roughness in the finish which I attribute in large part to the wine’s having just been bottled. This is another wine of its collection that should merit a decade of cellaring. Landanger says that while the parcels that inform this were touched by hail, his monopole within the Caillerets – the Clos des 60 Ouvrees – was spared. Patrick Landanger’s recent vintages seem to reflect increasing confidence (not to mention consistency), displaying a sense of restraint while combining richness and transparency to detail. Between the threat of rot and of roasting, he observes, the 2007s required more rigorous sorting than did the fruit from 2008, with a correspondingly lower crop, but Landanger and his crew did an outstanding job in the face of 2007 adversities as well as in 2008. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93